Expéditions Lointaines
Peru Travel Guide
Ce qui détermine un premier voyage au Pérou : l’altitude avant tout, les formalités, la part du sud qu’il est réaliste de parcourir d’une seule traite, les oiseaux, et trois voyages que nous organisons ici.
Huayllapa, Huayhuash, Peru © Tristan Quevilly
This is the Peru guide we would hand a traveller before they book anything. It covers what decides a first trip — altitude, entry, money, when to go, the regions worth your days — and it ends with three journeys we actually run here.
It is not a list of ruins. Peru is several journeys that share one passport stamp — the southern Andes around Cusco and Titicaca, the Amazon lowlands, the northern cloud forests and the Cordillera Blanca — and the usual mistake is trying to fit all of them into one trip. Altitude decides the order before the map does: the first two days at 3,400 metres are not the first two days at sea level.
Two things it does not do. It does not repeat the general advice you can find anywhere; it says what changes a decision here. And it does not pretend the country is easy: where the road is long, the pass is high or the visit needs a guide, the guide says so.
Chapter 1
Peru at a glance
The numbers you want before you start planning: what the country is called on paper, where it sits, and the few figures travellers ask about first — including how much of it stands above 3,000 metres.
Country facts
- Official Name: Republic of Peru
- Continent: South America
- Time zone(s): Peru Time (PET, UTC-5)
- Capital City: Lima
- Population: Approximately 34 million (2023 estimate)
- Official Language(s): Spanish, Quechua, Aymara
- Government Type: Unitary presidential republic
- Primary Economy Sectors: Mining, agriculture, manufacturing, tourism
- Currency: Peruvian Sol (PEN)
- Voltage and Plug Type(s): 220V, Type A and C plugs
- International Calling Code: +51
- Main International Airport(s): Jorge Chávez International Airport (LIM, Lima)
Chapter 2
Before you go
Nine things that decide how smoothly a first trip runs, and in Peru altitude sits above all of them: it shapes the first two days, the route, and how far you can walk once you are there. From the entry rules to what the wet season does to a mountain road, this is what we tell travellers before they book.
Climate and when to go
- Best Months: For Peru, plan around May to September for clear Andean skies and cooler coastal conditions, accepting that the Amazon is at its wettest.
- Climate Type: Peru compresses desert coast, high-altitude Andes and humid Amazon into one country, so temperatures and rainfall shift sharply by altitude rather than by season alone.
- Temperatures & Rainfall: Coastal Lima stays mild and almost rainless, Andean cities such as Cusco are cool year-round with June–August nights near freezing, while the Amazon is warm and humid with heaviest rain from December to April.
- Seasonal Variations: The dry season brings bright mountain days but cold nights and occasional altiplano frost; the wet season can close roads, cloud trekking routes and swell rivers, while El Niño occasionally causes coastal flooding and warmer seas.
- What to Pack: Bring layered clothing, rain protection for the Amazon, sun protection for high altitude, and sturdy shoes for uneven terrain; check local forecasts before committing to trekking or river travel.
Visa and entry
Most US, Canadian, UK, Schengen and Australian tourists may enter Peru visa-free for up to 90 days. Entry normally requires a passport valid for the intended stay, and officers may ask for onward travel or proof of sufficient funds. Tourism is the usual permitted purpose; longer stays or other purposes require advance arrangements. Confirm current rules before booking.
L'argent
Peru’s currency is the sol (PEN), and small cash notes are essential, especially outside cities. ATMs in cities are common but impose fees and limits, while Visa and Mastercard suit hotels and restaurants; American Express is patchier, and cards often attract surcharges. Tipping is appreciated, not compulsory; bargaining is normal in markets; costs are moderate—cheaper than Western Europe—though IGV and tourist levies add small sums. The common mistake is assuming dollars are widely accepted—outside tourist hubs they are not.
Sécurité
Peru is generally safe for tourists who use ordinary urban caution, though opportunistic theft is the most common risk. Keep valuables close in crowded markets, use radio taxis or ride-hailing apps over street cabs, and avoid isolated areas after dark. Solo travelers should share itineraries and expect firm boundaries; respect local customs and park rules, and note earthquake and flood risks in Andean and coastal regions. Carry document copies, insurance details, and emergency contacts, and remain alert rather than alarmed.
Santé
Comprehensive travel insurance with medical evacuation is essential for Peru, where altitude sickness can derail itineraries above 2,500 metres. Before departure, consult a travel clinic about hepatitis A/B, typhoid, tetanus and yellow fever entry requirements; malaria and dengue occur in Amazon lowlands, so use repellent and consider prophylaxis. Drink bottled or boiled water, eat thoroughly cooked food, protect against sun and heat, allow acclimatisation, and note pharmacies are widespread in cities but serious care may require evacuation; seek personalised medical advice before travel.
Se déplacer
For an itinerary spanning Peru’s coast, Andes and Amazon, domestic flights are the practical backbone, since overland journeys are long and often mountainous. Long-distance buses serve most regions and are comfortable if booked with reputable operators, but allow extra time for altitude and road conditions. In cities, use taxi apps or radio taxis rather than hailing on the street, and reserve rental cars only for experienced drivers outside major hubs; boats are essential in Amazon and Lake Titicaca.
Ce qu'il faut emporter
Pack for three climates in one trip: layer for freezing Andean nights and carry rain protection for the humid Amazon. Bring sturdy hiking boots, strong insect repellent, high-altitude sun protection, prescriptions, and modest layers for churches. Check forecasts before trekking or river travel; pack a power bank, universal adapter for Peru’s 220V outlets, and document copies.
Where to sleep
In Peru, secure lodging well in advance for Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu during the May–September dry season, when availability tightens and rates climb. Options range from family-run hospedajes and hostels to restored colonial boutiques and Amazon ecolodges, with budget rooms around S/60–120, mid-range S/180–350 and luxury above S/500. Confirm hot water and heating in highland stays, and carry cash for remote villages.
Culture
In Peru, everyday courtesy rests on acknowledging the Andean earth and its cycles, so travellers should greet calmly and treat indigenous languages and ritual offerings with respect. Quechua and Aymara coexist with Spanish; market stalls display woven textiles and carved retablos, while huayno music and the scissors dance animate fiestas such as Inti Raymi, where chicha de jora and dishes like ceviche are shared. Family and compadrazgo networks remain central, Catholic feast days blend with Pachamama veneration, and dress is modest in highland communities and churches, with polleras and manta shawls worn for festivals rather than daily costume.
Chapter 3
Où aller
Peru is five travel regions, and a first trip is lucky to carry two of them well. These are the bases we would actually sleep in — Lima and the Cordillera Blanca, the southern Andes around Cusco and Titicaca, the Amazon lowlands and the northern country of Kuelap and Chan Chan.
Chapter 4
Don't miss
A short list rather than a long one, spread so a two-week route can take in four or five without rushing between them — and weighted, honestly, to the south, where the country keeps most of what people come for.
-
Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu is an iconic Incan citadel located in the Andes Mountains of Peru. It is one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Machu Picchu was built in the 15th century and remained hidden from the outside world until its rediscovery in 1911. The site features intricate stone constructions, terraced fields, and majestic mountain views. Visitors can explore the ancient ruins, hike the famous Inca Trail, or take a scenic train ride to reach Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu is a must-visit destination for history enthusiasts, nature lovers, and those seeking a glimpse into the ancient Incan civilization.
-
Ollantaytambo
Ollantaytambo is an ancient Incan town located in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. It is known for its well-preserved Incan architecture and steep terraces that climb the surrounding hillsides. Ollantaytambo served as a strategic administrative and ceremonial center during the Inca Empire. Visitors can explore the archaeological site, climb the terraces for panoramic views, and wander through the narrow cobblestone streets of the town. Ollantaytambo is also a transportation hub for those traveling to Machu Picchu, as it is the starting point of the famous train journey to the ancient citadel. It offers a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty, making it a must-visit destination in the Sacred Valley.
-
Salt Terraces of Maras
The Salt Terraces of Maras are a fascinating network of salt evaporation ponds located in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. These salt pans have been in use since pre-Incan times and are still actively harvested by local communities. The terraces create a striking visual spectacle with their geometric patterns and varying shades of white. Visitors can explore the site, learn about the traditional salt extraction methods, and even purchase locally sourced salt as a unique souvenir. The Salt Terraces of Maras offer a glimpse into ancient salt production techniques and provide a scenic and cultural experience in the Peruvian Andes.
-
Rainbow Mountain Trek
The Rainbow Mountain Trek is a popular hiking route that leads to the renowned Rainbow Mountain in the Peruvian Andes. It offers trekkers the opportunity to explore the stunning landscapes of the Ausangate Mountain region, including glacial lakes, snow-capped peaks, and the colorful Rainbow Mountain itself. The trek is known for its challenging terrain, high-altitude passes, and immersive cultural experiences as it passes through remote Andean communities. The Rainbow Mountain Trek is a fantastic choice for adventurers seeking a unique and less crowded route to witness the mesmerizing beauty of Rainbow Mountain and its surrounding natural wonders.
-
Islas Flotantes de los Uros
The Uros islands are man-made platforms built from the reeds that grow in abundance around Lake Titicaca. A visit focuses on how the local people live on them and on the traditions that shape daily life on the water.
-
Reserva Nacional de Paracas
Paracas National Reserve is a protected area located on the southern coast of Peru. It encompasses a vast desert landscape, including towering sand dunes, rocky cliffs, and pristine beaches. The reserve is also home to abundant marine life and serves as a sanctuary for numerous bird species. Visitors can explore the reserve by taking boat tours to the Ballestas Islands, where they can observe sea lions, penguins, and diverse bird colonies. Paracas National Reserve offers a unique blend of desert and marine ecosystems, providing opportunities for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts to enjoy diverse landscapes and wildlife in a stunning coastal setting.
-
Huayhuash
Huayhuash is a stunning mountain range located in the Peruvian Andes. It is renowned for its rugged beauty, towering peaks, and pristine alpine landscapes. Huayhuash offers exceptional trekking and mountaineering opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts and adventure seekers. The multi-day treks in Huayhuash allow hikers to traverse high mountain passes, witness breathtaking glaciers, and camp in remote and picturesque locations. The range is less crowded than some other trekking destinations in Peru, providing a sense of solitude and immersion in nature. Huayhuash is a paradise for those seeking challenging adventures in a majestic and untouched mountain setting.
-
Laguna 69
Laguna 69 is a breathtaking glacial lake located in Huascaran National Park in the Cordillera Blanca range. It is famous for its vivid turquoise color and stunning mountain backdrop. To reach Laguna 69, visitors undertake a challenging hike through scenic valleys and steep ascents. The reward is a mesmerizing view of the lake surrounded by towering peaks and cascading waterfalls. Laguna 69 offers a memorable alpine experience and is highly regarded as one of the most beautiful lakes in the Cordillera Blanca.
-
Kuelap
Kuelap is an ancient fortress located in the cloud forest of northern Peru. It is a pre-Incan archaeological site that dates back to the 6th century AD. The fortress is situated on a mountaintop and consists of massive stone walls and intricate buildings. Kuelap offers a glimpse into the history and architecture of the Chachapoya civilization, known for its impressive stone constructions. Visitors can explore the site, marvel at the well-preserved ruins, and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding cloud forest. Kuelap provides a unique cultural and historical experience in a stunning natural setting.
-
Gocta and Yumbilla Waterfalls
Gocta and Yumbilla are two magnificent waterfalls located in the Amazonas Region of Peru. Gocta is one of the tallest waterfalls in the world, with a height of approximately 771 meters (2,530 feet), while Yumbilla is known for its multi-tiered cascades. Both waterfalls are nestled in lush cloud forest environments, creating a breathtaking natural spectacle. Visitors can embark on hiking trails to reach the waterfalls, witnessing the power and beauty of these natural wonders up close. Gocta and Yumbilla offer a unique opportunity to experience the grandeur of Amazonian waterfalls and explore the pristine landscapes of the region.
-
Chan Chan
Chan Chan is an archaeological site in northern Peru and was once the capital of the ancient Chimú civilization. It is the largest adobe city globally, covering approximately 20 square kilometers. The site features impressive clay structures, intricate carvings, and elaborate wall decorations. Visitors can explore the ruins, including the Tschudi Complex, Nik-An Palace, and Ceremonial Plaza. The UNESCO World Heritage Site offers a fascinating glimpse into the pre-Columbian history and architectural achievements of the region.
-
Tambopata National Reserve
Tambopata National Reserve is a vast protected area in the Peruvian Amazon rainforest. It is renowned for its incredible biodiversity, including numerous plant and animal species. The reserve offers opportunities for wildlife viewing, birdwatching, and eco-adventures. Visitors can explore the dense jungle, take boat rides along the Tambopata River, and even stay in eco-lodges for an immersive rainforest experience. Tambopata National Reserve provides a chance to witness the wonders of the Amazon and support conservation efforts in one of the most biologically diverse regions on Earth.
Chapter 5
Birds you can photograph
Peru holds more bird species than any country except Colombia and Brazil, and they divide roughly three ways: the high Andes, the cloud forest, and the Amazon lowlands. These are the species photographers ask for, and the ones a first trip can realistically deliver.
Chapter 6
Suggested itineraries
Three ways we actually travel here, day by day: the southern circuit from Nazca to Machu Picchu, the Manu road down into the Amazon, and the Huayhuash trek. They are samples rather than fixed products — the sequence is the useful part.
Peru’s Southern Circuit: Nazca, Colca Canyon & Machu Picchu
14 days
- Days 1-3Coastal Peru: Lima, Nazca & Huacachina
- Days 4-7Arequipa & Colca Canyon
- Days 8-14Cusco, the Sacred Valley & Machu Picchu
Peru Wildlife Photography: Amazon & Manu
14 days
- Days 1-2Upper Manu Road | Cloud-forest feeders, elfin forest trails and the transition down the Manu Road.
- Days 3-4Middle Manu Road | Lek habitat and middle-slope forest around Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.
- Days 5-6Villa Carmen Foothill Forest | Warm foothill forest, trails and a focused antpitta-hide session.
- Days 7-12Atalaya and Manu Lowlands | A road-and-river transition toward Amazonia Lodge and the lowland forest.
- Days 13-14Tambopata Wildlife and Macro | A focused Tambopata finish of oxbow-lake wildlife, forest trails and night macro work.
Siula Grande and the Cordillera Huayhuash Trek
15 days
- Days 1-4Arrival and Acclimatization | Lima, the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra: four days to gain altitude gently before the trek begins.
- Days 5-11The Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit | Seven days of supported trekking around Peru's second-highest range, from the eastern lakes to the Jahuacocha mirrors.
- Days 12-15Return and Departure | The road back to Huaraz, the long bus to Lima, and the flight home.
Chapter 7
Practical questions
The questions we are asked most often before a first trip, answered plainly — timing, where to go, and where to stay when birds are the reason you are coming. They are country questions, not questions about one tour.
La meilleure période pour l'observation des oiseaux au Pérou se situe généralement de septembre à novembre. Durant ces mois, de nombreuses espèces sont en période de reproduction, ce qui les rend plus actives, vocales et plus faciles à repérer. Cette période coïncide également avec l'arrivée d'oiseaux migrateurs de l'hémisphère nord, ce qui augmente considérablement la diversité des espèces dans divers habitats.
La saison sèche de mai à septembre est également une période idéale, particulièrement pour explorer les Andes et la forêt amazonienne. Les précipitations plus faibles durant ces mois garantissent de meilleures conditions de sentier et une accessibilité facilitée aux sites d'observation d'oiseaux isolés. Pour ceux qui s'intéressent aux espèces côtières, l'été austral entre décembre et mars est idéal pour l'observation des oiseaux de rivage et des oiseaux marins. Bien que le Pérou offre des opportunités d'observation d'oiseaux productives tout au long de l'année, la transition entre les saisons sèche et humide offre généralement l'expérience la plus enrichissante.
Le Pérou est une destination mondiale de tout premier plan pour l'observation des oiseaux, grâce à des habitats diversifiés qui abritent plus de 1 800 espèces. Le parc national de Manu et la réserve nationale de Tambopata sont mondialement réputés pour leur biodiversité amazonienne et leurs argilières à aras animées. Pour ceux qui recherchent des espèces de haute altitude, le canyon de Colca offre la meilleure occasion d'observer le condor des Andes, tandis que l'Abra Malaga est un haut lieu pour les espèces endémiques andines uniques. Sur la côte, la réserve nationale de Paracas et les îles Ballestas permettent d'observer des manchots de Humboldt et de nombreux oiseaux marins. De plus, la réserve d'Abra Patricia, dans le nord du Pérou, est un incontournable pour les espèces rares comme le colibri porte-épée merveilleux et la chevêchette à longues moustaches.
Le Pérou propose des lodges d'observation des oiseaux exceptionnels à travers ses divers habitats. Dans la région de Manu, le Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge est célèbre pour l'observation de l'oiseau national du Pérou, tandis que le Manu Wildlife Center offre un accès à de spectaculaires collpas d'aras. Pour ceux qui recherchent une nature sauvage et reculée, le Tambopata Research Center, au sein de la réserve nationale de Tambopata, est une destination de premier plan pour les espèces amazoniennes rares.
Dans les Andes du nord, l'Abra Patricia Owlet Lodge est essentiel pour l'observation de la rare Xénoglaux de Lowery et d'autres espèces endémiques. Pour un mélange de confort et de biodiversité, l'Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica près de Puerto Maldonado est vivement recommandé. Ces lodges se distinguent par leurs emplacements stratégiques et leurs guides ornithologiques experts, garantissant un nombre élevé d'espèces pour les visiteurs explorant la diversité aviaire du Pérou.
If you are weighing up a trip to Peru — timing, altitude, how much of the south is realistic in one go — reply to the email this came in and tell me where you are in the thinking. I answer those myself.
Travel Peru with us
Small-group journeys, personally guided, with time to look properly.
