Cono de Arita

Un matin de merveilles géométriques

The day began at 7:00 AM, the kind of early start that feels heavy until the first light touches the horizon. I climbed onto my motorcycle and rode for twenty minutes through the crisp morning air to Ojos del Campo in Antofalla. Reaching the site felt like stepping onto another planet. Below me, small lagoons formed perfect, natural geometric shapes, their colors shifting as the sun climbed higher. I launched my drone, capturing the symmetry from above—a perspective that made the early wake-up call worth every shivering second.

La chaleur d'Antofalla

After the flight, I returned to the village, resting briefly in the family house where I’d been staying before moving over to the Casa de Altura. The logistical side of travel—settling the bill and hunting down extra gasoline—was quickly overshadowed by the hospitality of the locals. The hotel owner invited me for breakfast, and we sat together, talking deeply about their indigenous roots and the culture that defines this high-altitude desert. I felt a surge of pride sharing photos of my girlfriend, GoraWin, and explaining her own indigenous heritage. There was a beautiful, unspoken bridge built in those moments. Later, the owner’s daughter surprised me with a plate of milanesa and rice, a simple, generous meal that fueled me for the long road ahead.

L'ascension du Cono de Arita

Leaving the village, I began the ascent toward the Cono de Arita. The road was a grueling stretch of vibrations and biting cold as I climbed to 4,500 meters. Every bone in my body felt the terrain, but the scenery was so breathtaking it acted as a distraction from the physical toll. When the Cono finally appeared on the horizon, it was awe-inspiring—a perfect, dark pyramid rising out of the flat salt desert. It looked entirely otherworldly, a monument left behind by a forgotten civilization. I spent hours capturing the moment with my camera and drone, trying to bottle up the scale of the place.

Une Sentinelle dans le Désert

I had originally planned to camp right there, under the shadow of the cone, but the nearby mining operation had strict security protocols. After a brief conversation with the staff, they informed me I’d have to relocate for security reasons. It was a minor setback that led to a magical encounter. As the sun began to dip, setting the sky ablaze in a riot of oranges, pinks, and deep purples, a desert fox appeared. He didn’t run; instead, he posed against the vast landscape, a silent witness to the sunset. Later, as I settled in near the mining facility, I noticed him observing me from a distance. I felt a strange, quiet connection to this mysterious creature and decided to share some of my bread with him. Watching him, I couldn’t help but wonder how such animals survive in this barren environment with no visible signs of life. It was a moment of pure magic that added a soul to the journey.

Hospitalité Inattendue

La journée s'est terminée non pas dans ma tente, mais dans un local du personnel gracieusement mis à disposition par les agents de sécurité. Ils se sont surpassés, me fournissant eau et nourriture, transformant une nuit incertaine en une nuit confortable. En repensant à cette journée, des lagunes géométriques du matin au renard au crépuscule, je suis frappé par l'incroyable gentillesse des habitants de cette région. Le paysage de l'Atacama est rude et impitoyable, mais la chaleur de ses habitants laisse une empreinte impossible à oublier. L'image de ce coucher de soleil, avec le ciel en feu au-dessus des marais salants, est quelque chose que je porterai en moi pour toujours.

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